Jaimal Yogis is fed up with living in the suburbs and picks up in his teens and heads off to Hawaii in search of something more.
This book is like Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha meets surfing bum.
It is a pretty easy read and somewhat captivating tale for anyone who has dreamed of picking up and going to live on an island as surfing bum. The author talks life, meaning, meditation, and surfing. What else could you possibly need?
“Surfing is kind of a good metaphor for the rest of life. The extremely good stuff - chocolate and great sex and weddings and hilarious jokes - fill a minute portion of an adult lifespan. The rest of life is the paddling: work, paying bills, flossing, getting sick, dying.”
“I guess even the prettiest things eventually end up stinking. Everything does. We all will die and rot and decay and be reborn as dirt or flowers or worms, or polar bears who will drown because their ice is all melting, or presidents of war-torn countries or whales swimming around acidifying seas. And then we will rot and decay again. And so it goes.”
“Suffering is an experience in the mind, master your thoughts- or simply let them be without constant reactions and identifications- and you master reality”
“If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water.”
I need to learn how to surf.
The book reinforces the fact that life involves risk. You can fail at leading a life that you don’t love, so you ought to take a shot pursuing what you do love.
I think that there is value in taking a break from the traditional 9-5 in pursuit of exploration and adventure in a far-off land. Of course, this book romanticizes the idea. I think he understated the hardship, loneliness, and difficulty he likely faced moving away from family and starting a new life. Nonetheless, I think there is value in overcoming adversity and weathering hardship. It helps you learn about yourself and your environment.
8/10 Espresso shots.
Easy, enjoyable escape/read.
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